EXPLANATION

WHAT YOU NEED TO KNOW

A knowledge page to help you put together your Wheel-Tec wheels.

The pros and cons of a classic or straight pull hub depend entirely on the total wheel configuration. Which type of hub is most suitable for you depends on a number of factors, including rider weight, rim type, rim height, number of spokes, spoke type. We are happy to give you personal advice on this.

THE HUB

  • J-BEND/STRAIGHTPULL

      Classic hubs: Most hubs use so-called J-Bend spokes. These are spokes with a 90 degree bent head so that they can be mounted in the hub flange. These are also called "classic" hubs. Hubs – including: DT-Swiss Classic, HOPE, Onyx, Chris KingStraightpull hubs are designed for spokes with a straight head, the so-called straightpull spokes. Hubs – including: DT-Swiss SP, Carbon Ti SP, EXTRALITE

  • RATCHET/PAWLS

      Pawls and springs: a number (usually 2-6) of small spring-loaded pawls engage a toothed ring to transfer the driving force to the hub. The teeth are beveled to allow free running of the hub in the other direction. This system has low resistance and makes the classic clicking sound. Hubs: including HOPE, Carbon-Ti, INDUSTRY-9Ratchet: this system uses a pair of toothed rings that engage in one direction and slide over each other in the other. There is more contact surface in this system for very strong power transmission. This system makes a clicking sound that becomes louder as the toothed rings have finer teeth. DT-Swiss, for example, supplies toothed rings with 18, 36 or 54 teeth. Hubs: DT-Swiss, ExtraliteRing Drive: Chris King's unique drive mechanism uses a pair of toothed rings that engage in one direction via a so-called helix (worm gear) and slide over each other in the other. This system has a very strong power transmission and produces a unique freewheeling sound: the so-called Chris King Buzz. Hubs: Chris KingSpragclutch: a series of plates (sprags) engage the axle when force is applied to the drivetrain. No teeth are used, which makes this system silent and completely stepless with a very low resistance. Hubs: Onyx

  • AXLE TYPE

    The type of axle is determined by the dropouts on your bike frame. Thru axles have become the standard for mountain bikes, gravel and road disc brake wheels. The vast majority of rim brake bikes and some disc brake bikes use a quick release.

  • DRIVETRAIN

    A drivetrain or gear group needs a specific hub body / freewheel to be able to mount the cassette. Most hubs in our range are available for almost all drivetrains and can also be easily adjusted afterwards if you change drivetrain.

  • BRAKE TYPE

      Does your bike have disc brakes? Then you’ll need a hub that is designed to accept a brake rotor. There are two common standards for rotor mounting: Centerlock and ISO (also known as 6-bolt). Centerlock uses a round grooved interface and a center lockring. ISO/6B uses six bolts to attach the rotor to the hub. If your bike has rim brakes, you won’t need rotor mounts. There are Centerlock and ISO rotor mounts for almost every brake currently available. Choosing between the two is largely a matter of preference. Note that it is easy to convert a Centerlock hub for use with an ISO/6B rotor using an adapter. It is not possible to do the reverse.

  • POINTS OF ENGAGEMENT

    The number of points of engagement (POE) in the hub determines how “fast” the freewheel system engages. This is also referred to as “(maximum) degrees of freewheel”. The lower the number of degrees, the faster the drivetrain engages when you start pedaling. For example, a 36-tooth (36T) drivetrain has 10 degrees of freewheel (one full revolution of 360 degrees divided by 36 teeth to get 10 degrees). A 48-tooth drivetrain has 7.5 degrees, etc. A sprag clutch has an infinite number of points of engagement.

THE RIM

  • TUBE/TUBELESS/TUBULAR

    Rims that are not tubeless compatible must use inner tubes. Rims that are tubeless compatible are more versatile: they can use tubes with tires or a tubeless setup with (suitable) tires. If you are interested in tubeless tires, make sure you get a tubeless compatible rim.

  • RIM WIDTH

    A wider internal width will create a more stable, aerodynamic interface with your tire. We recommend going as wide as possible, without going wider than your narrowest tire.

  • RIM HEIGHT

    A deeper rim is usually more aerodynamic, heavier, and has a stiffer, less comfortable ride. This isn’t always the case, but it’s a good general rule. If you’re looking for a rim to maintain speed, go for a nice deep rim. However, if you’re going to be doing stop/start urban commuting, winding (mountain) roads, or riding through strong crosswinds, go shallow.

  • MATERIAL

    Carbon or aluminum? Good question!

The pros and cons of a classic or straight pull spoke depend entirely on the total wheel configuration. Which type of spoke/hub is most suitable for you depends on a number of factors, including rider weight, rim type, rim height, number of spokes, spoke type. We are happy to give you personal advice on this.

THE SPOKE

  • TYPE

      J-Bend spokes. These are spokes with a 90 degree bent head so that they can be mounted in the hub flange. These are also called "classic" hubs. Hubs - including: DT-Swiss Classic, HOPE, Onyx, Chris King. Straight pull spokes have a straight head, the so-called straight pull spokes. Hubs - including: DT-Swiss SP, Carbon Ti SP, EXTRALITE

  • FORM

    When choosing the right spoke shape, it is important to consider the intended use of the bicycle, the weight of the rider and the desired riding performance. Proper selection and correct installation of spokes contribute to an optimal cycling experience.